Hills Ahoy!

It was 12^th April 2014 and, I filled up the tank of my Palio MJD from the COCO where I religiously ensure to get the purest fuel in the city, checked all oil levels and tyre pressures. The next day, we'd get up too early to set off for Siliguri. Though the distance is a mere 585 kilometres, the cratered National Highway (NH) 34 is an endurance for both the vehicle and the driver. Google maps says, one can reach in 10 hours and 44 minutes. I have been through this road in 2010 and the experience wasn't that good. Perhaps Google has to take into account the moon craters on this NH. I was excited by the fact that it would be first drive to the hills. Everyone else were dead scared but Darjeeling, Pelling and Gangtok in their minds mooted their spirits. For me, this was a precursor and learning trip before I drive up my Palio to Leh.

The alarm rang at exactly 3:30AM for my wife Tamali to pack up some snacks for my ever hungry son Kajo. Everyone calls him Kaju these days and friends twist his name into delicious snacks like kajubarfi and kajubadam! Well, it's always advisable to have something from time to time while on the go. Cakes and sandwiches were packed and some last minute packing was finally over. Toffees and chaanch (buttermilk) were on menu too. All of us had proper bath and green tea to drive away all lethargy and set off at 5:30 AM. All of us prayed to God and took blessings of my father and mother who were not so supportive this time as my target was to tour Darjeeling and places in Sikkim.

The bypass was busy adding traffic while we sped away. Tamali was at the navigator's seat and Kajo took his place in the back with a cosy pillow for naps now and then. The drive did not thrill me as I knew that the road conditions would dampen all enthusiasm to drive. Took a wrong turn after Madhyamgram as the road was tempting. It led me towards Bongaon. I should have kept left all along. Wasted 45 minutes in all to hit NH34 once more.

I like to drive as the vehicle is hassle free and the drive doesn't take a toll on the body, mind and soul. My previous drives to Bhubaneswar in 2009, Guwahati in 2011, Chilika and Gopalpur in 2013 were smooth where I gained confidence in driving to long distances; sometimes driving 3-4 hours or more at a stretch. I am proud that my beauty never failed me at any point of time. Though I'm not a habitual off-roadie, but did at time drove her through 'make your own road' type of stretches.

Reached Berhampore at 11:30 AM and then the arduous task of crossing the Bridge over River Ganges full of lorries, buses, mini vans, pickups and the tuk-tuks. The road after Barasat was not that smooth but clocked an average speed of 45-50 kmph. But then, slowed down further as we crossed Krishnanagar and approached Berhampore. Had breakfast while driving and kept on gulping chaanch as that kept the stomach cool and the body fit for an endurance. After Berhampore, the Highway was a blessing in disguise as it was a toll road upto Farakka.

Sped away at 100-120 kmph with frequent slow downs at diversions. My imagination of good road took a beating when, after Farakka, I could not drive beyond 20-30 kmph upto Malda. Malda seemed to be a distant dream and reached only after 2 PM. Had lunch and then sped off again towards Raiganj. The road after Malda showed signs of improvement but then, it was the primitive NH. Work on 4 laning of the NH was yet to start at many places. Reached Dalkhola at 5:45 PM. Night was descending and am not that comfortable driving then. This was now NH 31. It was a smooth stretch when I first treaded it in the year 2010. Its condition has worsened by lack of maintenance. Sheets of bitumen has come off at places making patches that were 1.5-2 inches in depth and the maximum speed that I could afford was 60 kmph. Crossed Islampur and finally reached Siliguri at 8 PM. 5 hours at a stretch!

Drove into hotel Mainak, a decent lodge of the Tourism Department, GoWB and my favourite. All of us had a warm water bath and went straight to the dining hall. It's my favourite while in Siliguri as there's a parking space and the place is secure. The room rates are reasonable too. Temperature was much milder than what prevailed in Kolkata. Went to bed to wake up for another enduring journey.

The next day was 14^th April 2014. Had our breakfast and set off for Darjeeling. I was adviced by the staff at Mainak Tourist Lodge to take the Rohini road. I thanked them and went off to get the tank filled at the COCO pump in Siliguri as I knew the fuel quality in the hills. The road to Darjeeling via Sukna Military Camp was lovely to drive. Asked directions for this Rohini road. The road is a beauty as this was a toll road through the Rohini Tea Estate. The road ended at Kurseong.

To the left is the snap of the railway station at Kurseong. It was an uphill task of negotiating people spilling on to the road that's infested with parking woes. Driving through would stir everyone's nerves.

But then, driving through the lanes was like magic with the narrow gauge on one side and chaos on the other. I drew a deep breath of air as the limits of Kurseong ended.

The chugging toy train was a beauty of a glimpse on the way just before Tung. All the time, Kajo played Anjan Dutta's (should we call him Dutt) song on Darjeeling – Tung Sonada Ghoom periyey...

It was at Batasia that we had our lunch. Had a brief photo session at the newly dressed park, a War Memorial in honour of soldiers.

While entering Darjeeling, it was almost 4 PM and an over enthusiastic, speeding downhill Hyundai Accent, blew off my RH-ORVM with its ORVM. Took directions from the policeman as I had to locate the lodge where a room was booked. This was my first visit and wasn't familiar with the deficient roads that were converted into single ways at places. Had to book one with a car park for my beauty to spend the night.

The above pictures are from our stroll on the Mall Road, a stone's throw from the lodge. Dinner was served in the room in huge keep hot cases. It was lovely. But the water wouldn't heat up in the Geyser. From 40^oC in Kolkata to 18^oC in Darjeeling! Nice for a change.

Spent the night at Darjeeling and took an early morning walk to view the mighty Khanchendzongha! The view was misty and thought that it'd be a better view from Pelling. But little did we know that our fate would not have us see the majestic view from that place! In all the early mornings that we got up to see the mighty Khanchendzongha, it was draped in clouds.

We checked out after breakfast and proceeded to Jorethang. I took the shortest route that led to Jorethang.

This was the toughest road I ever drove. Though I was posted in Sikkim during the initial years in service, I never drove a 4-wheeler on them. It was the shortest route from Darjeeling to Jorethang. These 25~30 kilometers were full of mad rush of adrenalin and all of us vowed never to tread this path again. But it was fun. At places, the inclination would be more than 60^o. The drums of the brake heated up and at one place, it was so steep and riddled with gravels that I had to engage the reverse gear and go down slowly by not releasing the clutch fully. The risk was that the gear might give up. The road was dusty and full of boulders that could hit the base of the chassis. One had to drive extra carefully to avoid any incident that would have stalling effect on the car and get stuck in wilderness. The ground clearance was a factor to reckon with.

Jorethang could be seen from above but did not feel like entering it. Instead I crossed Nayabazar and drove towards Legship. Crossed Gayzing and was on the way to Pelling when the unthinkable happened. At a point, the road was narrow and in order for a coming vehicle to pass, went so left that both the rear and front left wheels went off the road. The vehicle that I allowed to pass stopped and people poured out to get the wheels back on the road. So helpful were they. By then, the damage was done and oil was pouring out. Now, which oil?

Some suggested that it was diesel and some gear oil. This was the end of my great safari I thought to myself. Everyone who had warned against taking this risky driving adventure would rejoice!

Slowly reversed the car and, drove down-hill occasionally starting the vehicle to apply the brakes and free the steering. Brakes and steering stiffen when the vehicle is idle. But then, good and generous acts have a good consequences. Found a mechanic before entering Gayzing who told me that there was a mechanic available in Pelling who could fix the leak with M-Seal. Distance to Pelling from that point was 5 kilometres. Drove cautiously upto Pelling and parked it at Sikkim Tourist Centre. Driving without gear oil spelled disaster for any vehicle. Was too upset with this accident. The car was left overnight for all gear oil to drain out and the next day at 11 AM the mechanic (lamboo) turned up with the sealant. The sealant was applied and was left to dry for over 3 hours after which gear oil was poured in the chamber. Allowed 2 more hours and on being certified that all izz well, we went out to Singshore Bridge.

Came back and checked for leaks if any. All was really well. But then, my confidence never took wings as the sealant might come off. Who knows? Might happen! The roads were bumpy at places and there were sinking stretches where repairs are carried out throughout the year. Carefully checked the base now and then for any leaks that'd kill me again and again.

The next day, we started off for Gangtok. Drove cautiously with extra precautions. Stopped at places and asked my wife to check if anything was dripping beneath the engine area on to the road. Reached Gangtok in the evening as this freak incident had shaken my nerves and you do not get FIAT parts everywhere. One thing that drove my confidence was the build quality of FIATs. They rarely fail.

Came out of Sikkim at Melli and entered it again at Rangpo. The road was too good by what I had fared till time. It's maintained well too. The cleanliness is what the locals have adopted to and it reflected everywhere. The road from Melli to Jorethang is getting widened. On completion, the distance can be covered in time less than I took. There were dangerous patches where the sharp boulders might scrape the base. So a car with decent ground clearance is bet suited for hill drive.

At Ranipool, took a right turn to visit my friend and colleague Dr. Laxmi Prasad Sharma and his family. His home is scenic with a stream passing by and a hanging bridge to reach it. He's converted the upper floor into a lodge with beautiful rooms for home stay. This is managed by his wife. Posting a photograph of this beautiful place. Bhabhiji quickly cooked up instant noodles and the hungry us gobbled it up in no time with a chutney made of dollay khursani (spiciest and hottest red chillies). The tea was excellent. By then, darkness was fast descending on the hills and we thanked them for their hospitality and proceeded for Gangtok.

Gangtok too had one-ways but the roads were more scientifically designed and built for traffic compared to the hill roads of Bengal. Stayed for 2 days there. On 17^th April 2014, we started for Tsomgo lake (Chhangu lake as Bengalis would prefer) in the morning. It was barely a few kilometers away that we were turned back by the Army because of heavy snowing in that region. Retreated to Gangtok disheartened. The stay at Gangtok and passes for Tsomgo were arranged by my batchmate and friend Rajesh Somani who runs a business these days and is a surveyor and loss assessor for GIC. Produces Marwari films too! You may say he manages a diverse portfolio!

It was on 18^th we started for Siliguri after visiting Rumtek. After a brief stopover at the renowned monastery, we headed for Siliguri. The road was smooth to drive on. Had lunch at a place 1-2 kilometers before Melli Bazaar and felt the rains pond the roof as we approached Teesta Bazaar. As the car crossed Kalijhora, the intensity of rain increased and suddenly the headlamps had to be switched on with distress blinking all through. Coronation Bridge was just 2 kilometers away when the wiper gave in. It became extremely difficult to drive in the inclement weather. Vehicles were coming up hill and going down hill with elan and it was my car that took a beating. These 2 kilometers seemed like a nightmare to drive on.

The rain subsided at Sevoke and parked the car aside to wipe off the water on windshield. It was sigh of relief for all travelers that we cam down from the hills safe and sound!

Could see a FIAT logo at the TATA workshop as we were on the outskirts. Went in to request an inspection as to why the wiper stopped functioning. But then, they refused to entertain as they no longer serviced FIAT cars. I pleaded with them to spare their electrician for 5 minutes. That they did not as he was too occupied. Disheartened, I turned the car towards Siliguri. A Hyundai workshop (ASS) caught my eye. Took the car there and their electrician was kind enough to inspect it. After his expert inspection, he gave me the news that the water pump was the culprit. I understood his expertise level! Thanked him and sped off towards my favourite haunt – Mainak Tourist Lodge.

Checked in to our allotted room and called up our homes to convey everyone that we'd reached Siliguri safe and sound and went out for shopping as we'd found while in the hills that all trinkets and gift items were indeed supplied from this place. Went to Golden Plaza on Burdwan Road and did minimal shopping and retreated to the lodge. Spoke to Maa again before an early dinner at 8:30 PM. It was 9:30 PM when my cellphone rang. It was my brother at the other side who gave the news that Baba had just had an heart attack. I asked all to pack up, cleared all bills and hurriedly set off for Kolkata. It was at the COCO pump while filling up for the journey ahead that my neighbour flashed the news that Baba was no more.

Such was the news that I couldn't take it easily. Infact, none of us could. Kajo and Tamali kept crying inconsolably. I was all in tears and wiped them as I drove along. It was beyond sane possibility to believe that the person we spoke to at 5:30 PM after reaching Siliguri and that all was well at 8:30 PM during the conversation with Maa, was no more! Gone in a whiff!! He'd suffered a cardiac arrest and passed away chanting Sai Ram Sai Ram Sai Ram... All of these happened within a span of 10-15 minutes and the hospital (Ruby General) declared as – brought dead

Heartfelt thank yous to Babun (Arindam Gangulee) and his gang for filling our absence and doing the maximum by taking Baba to the hospital and take vital decisions in those crucial minutes. Thank you Shantanu Banerjee (Kajoobaa) and his family for taking all trouble to arrange preserve the dead body at Peace Haven and stand by my mother. I thank you God for encompassing me with many a good soul!

Drove all through the night and the road was dotted with trucks and long distance buses. I always avoid driving in the night. But then, I had no option. This was the earliest way I could make to Kolkata from Siliguri. Dawn was breaking on the 20^th of April. All through the night, relatives kept track of our position. The dead body was kept at Peace Haven in Kolkata. My brother Arnab (Doye or Godey as I lovingly call him) with his family had taken the first flight from Delhi to reach Kolkata and I was too far from Berhampore.

The car was speeding at 90 kmph when I heard a bang! The right tyre on the front had hit the sidewall and burst. For a fraction of a second, I had dozed off! I still shudder when I think about it. Thank God that it was one way traffic and the car was on the right side of the road. The left had a sloping trench. Had it been the other side, I would not have been alive to pen down the travelogue. Changed the tyre and sped off after having hot cup of tea. Got stuck up again at the infamous Bridge over River Ganges – full of lorries, buses, mini vans, pickups and the tuk-tuks

The bad stretches of the NH34 pulled the trigger of my temper till the car reached Barasat. Called up my brother to get Baba home for a last glimpse before cremation.

This journey has left a deep scar that won't fade for ever!